Day 32 – Big Sur (Lucia) – 55 km
What a day! Last night we camped at a private campground and felt lucky to get a site as it was getting late and starting to rain. This area has a lot of tourists all year round so accommodation can be difficult – especially since the Big Sur state campground is closed due to issues related to recent forest fires. No risk of fires now, as it pounded down with rain all night and much of today. The kind of rain that soaks you within 30 seconds if you don’t have protection. We have only basic protection – rain jackets – so we were sodden most of the day. So too were our tents which had to be taken down and packed in drenching rain. It was miserable. But at least it’s not cold.
Services of any kind are few and far between in this area, and everything is expensive. It’s something of a tourist trap. And for cyclists it’s a trap that’s not easy to escape. Especially in the weather we were facing. After packing up and thoroughly wet, we went for coffee and refuge from the weather in the local cafe – the only one for several miles. This was undoubtedly the low point of our journey. We made a call and found a room available at the closest motel, 35 miles up the road. $250 a night for a very basic room. We spent the next four hours riding the coastal highway and battling a heavily gusting southerly wind blowing at us from every direction depending on the twists of the road – from the side (towards traffic), from the front (often while climbing a hill) and from behind (not often enough). And with the wind, a pelting rain that stings your face and your arms through your jacket sleeves. But at least today, with the abysmal weather, the traffic was light.
In planning this trip I took some satisfaction from a claim made somewhere that the wind blows generally from the north on this coast. If there’s any truth to that it hasn’t been happening for us. And weeks ago in Washington and Oregon when we had rainy days I motivated Sophie with the promise that once we reached California all our days would be sunny and warm. I think we’ve now paid our dues for that misconception and have earned a reprieve. The forecast for tomorrow and for the week ahead is sunshine.